STEMS & FORKS

Beautiful musings of flora and fare.

Carrot Almond Cake with Toasted Meringue – Dairy and Gluten Free

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I hadn’t planned on posting this recipe but you asked, so here it is.

I recently had a friend over that was lactose and gluten intolerant that was itching to try one of my cakes. I was also asked by fellow food blogger Andrey Tulsky to collaborate on posting a photograph on Instagram with carrots and one’s pet. And so was born this gluten free and dairy free almond and carrot cake. I love it when I kill two birds with one stone! 

This uber moist, high fibre, vitamin rich cake alone was a bit too “healthy”.  Initially I thought roll cake with orange marmalade to fill. But as I was cutting the cake into mini bite sizes and sampling the cutaway pieces, I realized it needed something fluffy, soft, sweet and naughty. It needed toasted meringue.

And in all fairness, meringue isn’t really “naughty” is it. Its simply egg whites and sugar. It’s the torching part that’s naughty I suppose. Firing up pure white fluffs into a light brown caramelized skin. Totally naughty. But if you’d rather “nice”, feel free to simply dust the sheet cake with some icing sugar. 

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PRIVATE FLORAL MASTERCLASS: DUTCH INSPIRED URN ARRANGEMENT

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PRIVATE 1:1 FLORAL MASTERCLASS: DUTCH INSPIRED URN ARRANGEMENT

Private One Day Workshops:

In the spirit of the Dutch Golden Age floral still life paintings, we will be creating beauty “vanitas” style. The idea that life is transient. As fragile as a large blossom standing tall from a thin stem. As futile as a tulip, blooming to a magnificent bloom only to drop its petals and bear seeds showing a new phase of life that is equally beguiling. The certainty of death, the reality of life for both flower and man is ephemeral. All captured in an unruly yet structured arrangement where every stem and bloom is purposeful. 

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Paris The Goddess of Liberty

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Arc De Triomphe, formerly Place de l’Étoile, honours those who served in French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars

Paris…the city of lights and romance. The first time I went to Paris I was in my mid-twenties – almost two decades ago! It was my second time in Europe but the first time I was awestruck by the sheer overload of beauty. The fashion forward people, architecture (particularly Haussmann’s architectural renovation in the “everyday” structures), the symmetrical gardens, galleries, luxury brand names and food overwhelmed me. It was such an extreme contrast to Toronto. Everything in Paris was made with such artistic detail. At twenty-something years old, I felt I had found my soulmate.

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Pavlova with White Currant Curd

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I’ve been promising a Pavlova recipe for ages. And while the web is doused with Pavlova recipes, I thought this white currant curd one might stand out. And stand out she does!  I rigorously researched (meaning I Googled it), and I couldn’t find a white currant Pavlova or for that matter a white currant curd anywhere online. 

It’s been a week since I got back from Paris, France and if you’ve been following along on my Instagram account you’ll know Pierre and I were sick for half the time we were there. Food poisoning from lightly seared tuna during a heatwave. I never seem to learn. (Second time…but the seafood stands look utterly scrumptious!) The worst part about this food poisoning story…I had forced Pierre to eat my leftover tuna (of course before I knew it was tainted), and the Airbnb we stayed at only had one toilet. Merde! 

So why a Pavlova now? Before heading to Paris, Pierre had made a mental list of all the foods he wanted to eat. Meringues were one of them. As a child, Pierre and his parents would make a yearly pilgrimage from Geneva to Paris to do some shopping. Not LV or Chanel, but books and antiques. Very old and special books you’d find in the markets along the Seine river. But for Pierre, it was meringues. He’d dream of those fluffy saccharin-drenched, swirly clouds of egg whites every year as a child. 

It’s been 14 or so years since we’ve both been to France and unfortunately that meringue plan never happened for Pierre. Between jet-lagged kids, food poisoning and my workshop, there were maybe at most, two days that we got to venture out …albeit with recovering woozy bellies. So for two days, we focused on showing the kids Paris’ sights and attractions much to their conspicuous lack of enthusiasm.

In the meanwhile white currant curd Pavlova for Pierre…crispy on the outside and pillowy on the inside sweet meringue discs, sandwiching a sugary but tart curd topped with freshly whipped cream. Sorry Pierre! But French meringue will have to wait. First world problems. C’est la vie!

Bon app!

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Pavlova with White Currant Curd
Author: 
Prep time: 
Cook time: 
Total time: 
Serves: 7
 
For a single tier Pavlova, make exactly half the quantity.
Ingredients
  • FOR THE PAVLOVA:
  • 6 Egg whites room temperature
  • pinch of salt
  • 300 grams or 1½ cups super fine white sugar
  • 2 table spoons corn starch
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 teaspoon vinegar
  • FOR THE CURD:
  • 10 ounces or 285 grams more or less of fresh white currants stemmed
  • 4 tablespoons water
  • 6 egg yolks
  • 100 grams or ½ cup white sugar
  • 115 grams or ½ cup unsalted butter room temperature cut into cubes
  • FOR THE WHIPPED CREAM
  • 473 ml or 1 pint fresh heavy whipping cream
  • 4 table spoons fine white sugar
  • 1½ teaspoons vanilla extract
Instructions
  1. DIRECTIONS - PAVLOVA:
  2. Preheat oven with rack in middle to 325 F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper and draw two 7 inch circles with a gap of at least 4 inches between the two circles
  3. In a very clean stand mixer with very clean whisk attachment, beat the egg whites and salt on low speed and work your way up gradually to medium high speed until soft peaks are formed
  4. Start adding the sugar on high speed a table spoon at a time until egg whites are stiff and shiny...test by holding bowl upside down...whites shouldn't move. As well, take a bit of meringue and test between fingers...should be smooth with no grittiness left from sugar...takes about 5-7 minutes
  5. Sift the cornstarch over the meringue and whisk again on medium for max 5 seconds
  6. With spatula, gently fold in the vanilla and vinegar into the meringue until combined
  7. Take spatula and evenly divide the meringue into the two circles traced on the parchment paper
  8. Take an off set spatula and smooth out into circles and smooth out tops...you can make swirls or kisses on the side for an interesting design
  9. Place baking tray with meringues in 325 F pre heated oven but immediately turn down to 300 F and bake for 1 hour.
  10. Once bake time is finished, turn oven off, but do not remove or open door to oven!!! Leave in oven for at least 2-3 more hours. !Important otherwise major cracking and/or sinking pavlova! (keep in mind a little sinking and a little cracking is okay!)
  11. Allow to complete cooling outside in room temperature
  12. DIRECTIONS - CURD:
  13. While the pavlova is baking, in a medium saucepan, cook the stemmed white currants and the water for about 5 minutes all the while mashing them with a potato masher
  14. Once the berries have reduced, remove from heat and push the currant puree through a fine mesh strainer into a bowl... (you'll be left with about ¾ cup of currant puree) ..discard seeds and skin
  15. In a clean saucepan over medium heat add the egg yolks, sugar and white currant puree until well mixed and dissolved- whisking constantly about 4 minutes
  16. Add butter cubes one at a time once mixture warms up and is lightly bubbling and whisk frequently for another 5 minutes or until the mixture is thick and bubbling
  17. Strain through sieve into a bowl (for quicker cooler, use a baking tray lined with parchment paper.)
  18. Cover with plastic film so it touches the curd and refrigerate
  19. DIRECTIONS - WHIPPED CREAM:
  20. Take a clean stand mixer bowl, the whisk attachment, the cream and pop in freezer for 10 minutes
  21. Put the cream, sugar and vanilla extract in the cold stand mixer bowl and whisk on high speed for 1-1½ minutes or until medium stiff peaks form - do not over mix!
  22. ASSEMBLING PAVLOVA:
  23. Place first meringue layer down on your cake stand, take an offset spatula and spread the cooled down white currant curd evenly over the layer
  24. Place next meringue layer on top ...top with all the whipped cream
  25. Garnish with some white currant berries
  26. Keep refrigerated for up to 2 days, however be aware pav will become soggy. Best to consume same day it's been prepared.
  27. Pavlova discs can be made a few days in advance and stored at room temperature in an air tight container with parchment paper between the discs to avoid them from sticking

 

 

PARIS FOOD AND FLORAL WORKSHOP

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Elise Dumas, The Pineapple Chef

Paris Food and Floral Styling Workshop 

SOLD OUT 

POUR LE FRANÇAIS 🇫🇷, VOIR CI-DESSOUS

I’m thrilled to announce that I’ll be co-hosting an epic workshop on food and floral photography from the world’s epicentre of style, Paris, France with the talented food stylist and photographer, Elise Dumas from The Pineapple Chef.

Join us for a full day of intensive learning – whether you’re a hobby photographer or an established influencer, you’ll get tons of photography hacks and best practices to elevate you to the next level. We’ll have step-by-step demos, hands-on practice breakouts, and a practical session on how to navigate the social media sphere to put your best foot forward.

Spaces are limited so book soon.

Food & Floral Photography Master Class:

When:

Saturday, July 7th 2018

9:00 AM – 5:00 PM

Where: 

Gorgeous classic Parisian Studio in the trendy 7th Arrondissement, Paris, France

Instructors:

Elise Dumas, The Pineapple Chef, @thepineapplechef http://thepineapplechef.com/en

Betty Binon, Stems & Forks, @stemsandforks http://stemsandforks.com/

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Espresso Cinnamon Buns

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When my Belgian husband Pierre first immigrated to Canada, he was taken aback by the coffee culture here in Canada. “I find it so bizarre that North Americans can guzzle down this watery, sad version of what you call coffee.” This is where I explained to him coffee here wasn’t just about functionality and flavour profile. There’s an enormous social and cultural undercurrent surrounding coffee here. “Let’s do coffee.” Synonymous to let’s gather. Let’s gather and talk about anything and everything which will potentially take more than a few minutes…in which case we’ll need a heaping cup of coffee and some dessert to go with it. 

Of course Pierre, who was accustomed to little espresso shots in Europe has finally acclimatized to the Canadian coffee culture. Now, he’s the biggest advocate for taking the time to enjoy an oversized mug of java over long and meaningful conversations with loved ones. It only took ten years…

And I suppose that’s where this virtual coffee party all started. The talented Nate of the Terminatetor Kitchen wanted to “do coffee” with a few international fellow food bloggers. What better way to celebrate and connect but through a coffee recipe.

So I invite you to call a few friends, gather, brew a pot of java, bake these buns (which by the way are SUBLIME) and “do coffee”. 

Check out some of the other amazing coffee inspired recipes by my fellow food bloggers below:

Alexcrumb • Vegan chocolate meringue pie

Ananás e Hortelã • Strawberry Rolls with White Chocolate Glaze

Black.White.Vivid • Emirati Sweet Dumplings with Coffee Syrup (Luqaimat)

Cloudy Kitchen • Tiramisu Sheet Cake

DisplacedHousewife • Banana Espresso Cake with Espresso Bean Buttercream

Feed Me With Amanda • Tea Infused Shortbread

Feed The Swimmers • Fudgy Espresso Sweet Potato and Black Bean Brownies with Hazelnuts

and a Coffee Cream Cheese Frosting

Flor de Cerejeira • Mocha Orange Entremet

Flour Covered Apron • Espresso Banana Muffins with Chocolate Espresso Glaze

From Scratch Mostly • Argentinian Dulce de Leche Churros, Dipped in Coffee Chocolate Sauce

Harvest & Honey • Mocha-Braised Pork & Polenta Bowls

HonestlyYUM • Cafe Con Tres Leches Cake

Love Olive • Breakfast Almond Pancakes with Coffee Syrup

Milk of Thy Kindness • Best and Easy Coffee & Avocado Indo Style

Stems & Forks • Espresso Cinnamon Buns

TermiNatetor Kitchen • Blueberry Creme Fraiche Coffee Cake

The Almond Eater • Mocha Tahini Fudge

The Cinnaman • espresso ricotta cheesecake with emirati date crumb (batheeth)

The Korean Vegan • Vegan Tiramisu

Bon app!

Espresso and Cinnamon Twist Buns
Serves 8
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Prep Time
4 hr
Cook Time
22 min
Prep Time
4 hr
Cook Time
22 min
FOR THE DOUGH
  1. 1 teaspoon white granulated sugar for the yeast
  2. 1 tablespoon traditional active dry yeast
  3. 1/3 cup milk
  4. 3 3/4 cups - 4 cups or 490 grams - 520 grams of all purpose flour
  5. 1 teaspoon salt
  6. 1/2 cup or 100 grams white granulated sugar
  7. 3/4 cup buttermilk room temperature
  8. 6 table spoons very soft room temperature unsalted butter
  9. 2 large eggs room temperature
FOR THE FILLING
  1. 1 stick or 1/2 cup or 115 grams of unsalted butter room temperature
  2. 3/4 cup or 175 grams brown sugar
  3. 1 1/2 tablespoons cinnamon powder
  4. 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder (if its in flake form, put in ziploc and roll a rolling pin over it till it becomes a powder) Substitutes: instant coffee
GLAZE
  1. 1/4 cup heavy cream
FOR THE FROSTING
  1. 3 ounces or 85 grams cream cheese room temperature
  2. 1/4 cup or 55 grams unsalted butter room temperature
  3. 1 1/4 cup or 155 grams icing/powdered sugar
Instructions
  1. Instructions for the dough
  2. Scald 1/3 cup milk in small sauce pan till small bubbles form at side of pan or until it reaches a temperature of 110-120 F and is very warm to the touch but not so hot that it’s unbearable to touch
  3. Gently stir in the teaspoon of sugar and tablespoon of yeast. Set aside to poof to double it’s size… about 8-10 minutes
  4. In stand mixer with paddle attachment, mix the buttermilk, the eggs, salt and 1/2 cup sugar with the 6 tablespoons of very soft room temperature butter… Don’t worry too much if the butter is lumpy.
  5. Once the yeast has poofed pour into the stand mixer bowl and stir for a few seconds
  6. Swap out the paddle attachment now with the hook attachment
  7. Add about half the flour in until shaggy and somewhat combined, then add the rest of the flour and knead for about 8 minutes on low speed.
  8. Dough should be smooth, shiny, tacky and stick to the bottom of the bowl (not the sides) don’t be tempted to keep adding flour. Only add more if it’s sticking to sides and bottom…and add a spoonful at a time only. Less is more here. If it’s too dry, add a spoon of milk
  9. Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl keeping in mind the dough will double…cover with plastic and allow to rise in a warm part of home…2 - 2 1/2 hours
  10. Line with parchment or generously butter a 12 inch baking pan or pizza pan (with no holes on the bottom. I used a pizza pan) and set aside
  11. In a medium bowl, mix the cinnamon, brown sugar and espresso powder together and set aside
  12. Once the dough has risen to at least double, lightly dust a work surface with flour
  13. Punch dough down and transfer to counter. Take sharp serrated knife or dough scraper and cut the dough into 4 equal parts.
  14. Roll each of the pieces out in a rectangular shape about 8 inches by 12 inches
  15. Slather/spread about two tablespoons (from the half cup butter) on each rectangle using your fingers and leaving about half an inch on the edge of the entire border
  16. Sprinkle and spread about a quarter of the filling per rectangle and roll snuggly
  17. Not mandatory but very helpful at this point to chill the rolled dough for about 15 minutes before proceeding to next step - slightly chilled dough makes it easier to work with.
  18. Once all four have been rolled, take a very sharp serrated knife and cut down lengthwise centre and set aside
  19. You should have 8 tendrils now
  20. Refer to pics above for the following steps
  21. Take the tendril and bend at the center to make a “U”
  22. Twist/braid the the two 'legs' so they weave together
  23. Now starting from the center end, roll the weaved tendril all the way in a swirl motion.
  24. Once you’ve reached the end, tuck that tail under the bun
  25. Repeat with all 8 tendrils
  26. Arrange your rosy buns on your baking pan or pizza pan and completely cover with a damp cheesecloth or light kitchen towel (dampen cloths by soaking with water than wringing out excess water)
  27. Place in warm area for the second rise (until they’ve almost doubled in size) about 1 hour
  28. Preheat oven to 375 F and place rack to middle position in oven
  29. Brush on/pour over the 1/4 cup of cream all over the buns…make sure you use the entire 1/4 cup…its okay if it puddles between the buns…the liquid will get absorbed as it bakes
  30. Bake for 20-22 minutes…I usually tent mine with aluminum foil for the last 5 minutes as my buns tend to brown rather quickly towards the end. All ovens vary, so keep an eye on your buns to avoid over browning!
  31. They are ready once the internal temperature in the center of the buns reads 185 F on a thermometer and no longer looks doughy.
  32. While the buns are baking, prepare the frosting
  33. With paddle attachment, beat the room temperature cream cheese until smooth and creamy, then add the butter and beat until fully incorporated (if it gets lumpy, blow a hair dryer over the frosting while it’s beating for a few seconds)
  34. Add the powdered sugar and beat until smooth and silky
HOW TO SERVE
  1. There are a few ways to serve with the frosting.
  2. You can slather the entire pan of buns with the frosting while they are still a bit warm (not hot)
  3. Probably the most appetizing, but also the messiest and unestheitcally pleasing as the frosting completely covers the beautiful rosette buns
  4. The other way to serve is by lightly drizzling the frosting over the buns with a spoon or fork once they’ve cooled and serving with a heaping dollup of extra frosting on the side.
  5. Or serve these buns as is with a side of frosting for dunking.
  6. Anyway you pick, it’ll all be super yummy and fun.
Notes
  1. If using a pizza pan to to bake buns, make sure you line the bottom of your oven with some aluminum foil as there could be some excess filling that spills over
  2. Buns are ideal same day they are baked. However, keeps well for up to 3 days wrapped or in an airtight container.
STEMS & FORKS https://www.stemsandforks.com/

Earl Grey, Sesame and Cassonade Weave Bread

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As I continue on my Stems & Forks journey, I’m learning that my recipes are truly about taking the ordinary and making them extraordinary. Such as this weave brioche. I’ve taken this classic weave bread and doubled up on the layers by having 4 tendrils of dough rather than 2 crisscrossing. In fact, altogether there are 8 tendrils weaving in and out, creating a kaleidoscope of sugar, dough and buttered sesame seeds. If you love a more “pillowy” bread, feel free to make this into a two-roll (but with 4 tendrils) bread. I just love having loads of buttery sesame seeds intertwined with the brioche.

I know you’re thinking, “This looks hard!” I assure you it’s not! If I had to compare it to another task that might seem initially difficult- it’s like sewing a button. Actually, I don’t know how to sew a button. Rewind. Erase. It’s like learning to tie a shoelace. It seems complicated at first, but once you get into it, you’ll find your groove and it’s a cinch. A kid could even weave this bread. It’s that simple. You just need to follow the steps. And the pictures below will make it a no-brainer. I promise.

I don’t say this often, but this has definitely become one of my favourite recipes. I made this on a Friday but photographed it the following day. It was still moist and wonderful. Now I say it’s enough for 5-6 people, and with that being said, my husband and I finished it with a pot of coffee in less than an hour. But I guess my husband and I don’t qualify as normal people. We have no self-discipline when it comes to deliciousness! Make 2 if you expect company.

Wishing you and your family a happy Easter, Passover, Spring.

Bon App!

2. Take about a quarter of the filling and spread leaving about half an inch on the edge

3. Roll up nice and tight

4.With a sharp serrated knife, cut the rolls down the centre middle in half lengthwise.

6.Overlap the tendril pairs so they are alternating with the overlaps

 

 

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Earl Grey, Sesame and Cassonade Weave Bread
Prep time: 
Cook time: 
Total time: 
 
Ingredients
  • FOR THE BREAD:
  • 2½ cups or 325 grams all purpose flour
  • ¼ cup or 50 grams white granulated sugar
  • 1 teaspoon white granulated sugar
  • 1 teaspoon table salt
  • 1½ teaspoons traditional active dry yeast
  • 1 cup milk (will be reduced to a little less than a cup of milk)
  • 2 Earl Grey Tea bags
  • 2 fresh eggs room temperature
  • 6 tablespoons softened unsalted butter
  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  • FOR THE FILLING:
  • ½ cup or 113 grams softened unsalted butter
  • ½ cup or 100 grams brown cassonade sugar
  • ⅓ cup or 40 grams toasted sesame seeds
  • GLAZE:
  • 2 tablespoons pure maple syrup
Instructions
  1. In stand mixer bowl with hook attachment, sift flour, sugar and salt and give quick mix (with a whisk)
  2. In small sauce pan, on medium low heat, scald the milk until it forms little bubbles on the side of pan or reaches a temperature of 180 F. Turn heat off and allow to cool to about 110 F or touch with hand. Should be very warm to the touch... but not too hot that it's unbearable to touch
  3. Measure out ½ cup of the warm milk in a bowl and add the yeast and 1 teaspoon white sugar and give quick stir. Set aside and allow to poof (double its size)- about 10 minutes
  4. Drop the 2 Earl Grey tea bags in the remaining warm milk in sauce pan and let steep for 4 minutes. Remove bags and squeeze excess milk
  5. You should be left with about ⅓ cup of Earl Grey infused milk
  6. In stand mixer, still with kneading hook, stir in the Earl Grey infused milk
  7. Then add the milk with yeast and stir - Mixture will look shaggy and ragged. This is okay.
  8. Add the eggs in one at a time while stirring on low- scrape sides and bottom with a spatula a couple times while kneading.
  9. Add the butter in a table spoon at a time. waiting for butter to be incorporated fully before adding the next chunk in - dough will look sticky but keep kneading until the dough looks shiny and smooth
  10. If still dry and not coming together after 2 or 3 minutes, add a teaspoon of water or milk until dough comes together. If opposite issue of too wet, add an extra flour, a tablespoon at a time. You don't want it too sticky like pizza dough nor too taut... refer to pic above.
  11. Continue to knead for 10 minutes until the dough is smooth, shiny and no longer sticky
  12. Form the dough into a ball
  13. Grease with vegetable oil a large bowl until it is lightly covered
  14. Lightly roll the dough around in the greased bowl (Make sure bowl is large enough to accommodate the fact that dough will double in size)
  15. Cover with plastic film and allow to rise in warm area of home for 3 hours.
  16. In the meanwhile make the FILLING
  17. Loosely crush the sesame seeds in a mortar and pestle or zip in blender for a few seconds or put in ziplock and crush with rolling pin. You want a few seeds crushed. Crushing it will release some lovely nutty flavour
  18. Mix with spatula in bowl, the softened ½ cup butter and ½ cup brown cassonade until well blended- set aside
  19. ASSEMBLING THE WEAVE:
  20. *There are a series of pictures above which will help with the assembly
  21. After the first rise, take dough and cut into 4 equal pieces
  22. Roll each piece into flat oval shapes - about 12 inches in diameter
  23. Take about a quarter of the filling and spread leaving about half an inch on the edge
  24. Roll up all the way
  25. Do this for the rest of the dough sections
  26. Pop in refrigerator for 15 minutes on baking tray lined with parchment paper covered with plastic (Optional- I find this step helps keep the dough a bit firm when shaping)
  27. With a sharp serrated knife, cut the rolls down the centre middle in half lengthwise.
  28. Create a "tic tac toe" grid with the tendrils (refer to pic)
  29. Overlap the tendril pairs so they are alternating with the overlaps (see pic)
  30. Take all the tendril pairs that are on the underneath another tendril pair to overlap the pair that is clockwise to it. (refer to pic)
  31. Carefully tuck the tendril ends under the loaf
  32. Put on a large baking tray lined with parchment with at least 4 inches on all sides (to allow for the second rise and the spread during bake)
  33. Cover with a damp tea towel for second rise, place in warm part of house- about 1½ hours
  34. BAKING THE WEAVE:
  35. Preheat oven to 375 F
  36. Remove tea towel and bake for 20 minutes or until somewhat browned on the top
  37. Remove from oven and cover loosely with sheet of foil and bake for another 15-18 minutes
  38. Test bread by pressing close to centre...should be firm
  39. Immediately brush maple syrup all over bread
  40. NOTES:
  41. *When yeast doesn't poof, it usually means the milk was too warm or too cold. If you don't have a food thermometer, test by touching water. It should be very warm but not so hot that your fingers can't take it.
  42. Another issue could be the yeast has expired or simply died.
  43. If you only have raw sesame seeds, toast on pan over medium high heat for about 3 minutes stirring occasionally.
  44. This weave bread is best consumed within a couple days, however can be kept up to 5 days at room temperature wrapped with plastic
  45. Can also be frozen for about a month

 

 

Chocolate Cake with a Coffee Swiss Meringue Buttercream and Maple Glazed Walnuts

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On one of my recent blog posts, Orange Cardamom Cake with Blackberry Curd, a reader left a comment that left me scratching my head. She wrote, “I have tried to make this cake twice and the cake has fallen – severely – before taking it out of the oven. I have years of baking experience, and can’t get this to bake right.”

Of course, my heart sank. How could this be? I referred back to the cake recipe and scrutinized it line by line, and was still left baffled. I knew I had baked this cake several times and wondered what had gone amiss. After several conversations between the reader and myself, and I discovered exactly what went wrong. She had used a 6 inch pan the first time and an 8 inch pan the second time, when the recipe had called for a 9 inch pan. Using pans of another size, other than what the recipe calls for, (even a mere inch) can cause the cake to collapse in the middle and/or cause the excess to flow over the edge of the pan.

The fact that this particular reader was a seasoned baker, made me realize that although many home bakers out there may have decades of experience, it is probably in baking the same repertoire of recipes over and over. For instance, a simple pound cake or chocolate cake most likely won’t sink if substituting with a slightly different pan size. But for a genoise, sponge, angel, chiffon or any cake using egg whites and air to leaven (raise/suspend), the cake would definitely end up with a monumental crater. 

Chopping board provided by https://www.tshirtstudio.com

I’ve decided to do a quick checklist here with brief explanations on how to achieve that perfect cake. I’ll dedicate a more detailed blog post at a later time but for now I thought I’d share these quick tips to help you avoid any cake disasters.

-Check that your oven’s temperature is correct with an oven-safe thermometer.

-Always use the pan size indicated in the recipe. Using a smaller pan than what is called for in the recipe will cause the cake to collapse in the middle (and over flow on the sides). While baking, the cake expands and rises and has nowhere else to go. Thus, the flop and spillover. On the opposite spectrum, using a pan larger than what the recipe indicates may result in a flat and dry cake.

-Grease pan with butter and dust with flour on sides and line bottom of pan with parchment paper (that you’ve traced and cut out).

-Glass and dark-coloured pans usually bake things faster…reduce oven by about 25F or check up on cake a bit earlier. Normally recipes are based on aluminum/light-coloured pans.

-Always measure flour and most ingredients by weight. If you don’t have a scale, don’t scoop the flour directly with a measuring cup. Take a spoon and spoon it into the measuring cup and level off with a knife.

-Sift all your ingredients including sugar (especially brown sugar). Nothing like baking a gorgeous cake only to find a big air pocket inside after slicing into it. 

-Make sure you thoroughly whisk your flour and baking powders/sodas together

-Have all your ingredients come to room temperature (unless otherwise stated) – especially eggs, milk, creams, cheeses etc. This helps create a lighter texture and an even bake.

-If you’ve forgotten to bring your eggs to room temperature, soak them in a bowl of warm water for 10-15 minutes. 

-Don’t stray too much from the recipe. If it says 2 cups of flour, don’t add another half cup. In baking, even the slightest variation in ingredient ratios can throw the entire recipe off.

-When testing with a toothpick, dont wait till it comes out perfectly clean. A few crumbs on the toothpick is the perfect time to take out of the oven as the cake will continue to cook when taken out

-Brush your cakes with a simple sugar syrup while still warm. Its simple to make- equal amounts of water to sugar…bring to boil and brush over cakes. This will make your cakes moist for days!

Now back to what this blog post was really about…chocolate cake. The recipe below was tested at least a dozen times with various ingredients…sour cream instead of yogurt, butter instead of oil, unsweetened chocolate rather than semi sweet, raspberry buttercream instead of coffee…etc. And the end result was a gorgeous, moist, crumb. Sweet but not overly sweet with a smooth silky coffee buttercream with a nutty crunch. The recipe below is for a double layer cake and is quite large. You can easily make this cake into a single layer by dividing all the ingredients by half. This makes a single nine inch cake. I hope you enjoy it. 

Bon app!

Chocolate Cake with Coffee Swiss Meringue Buttercream and Toasted Maple Syrup Walnuts
Serves 12
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Cook Time
20 min
Cook Time
20 min
FOR THE CAKE
  1. 390 or 3 cups all purpose flour sifted
  2. 2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
  3. 1 teaspoon baking soda
  4. 1 teaspoon salt
  5. 225 grams or 8 ounces of semi-sweet chocolate finely chopped
  6. 85 grams or 1 cup sifted cocoa powder
  7. 2 tablespoons instant coffee or espresso powder
  8. 2 1/2 cups boiling water
  9. 1 1/2 cups canola or vegetable oil
  10. 6 eggs room temperature
  11. 400 grams or 2 cups white granulated sugar
  12. 200 grams or 1 cup brown sugar
  13. 1/2 cup plain greek yogurt
  14. 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
SUGAR SYRUP
  1. 1/4 cup water
  2. 50 grams or 1/4 cup white granulated sugar
  3. 3 tablespoons Grand Marnier
INGREDIENTS FOR COFFEE SWISS MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM
  1. 6 egg whites
  2. 400 grams or 2 cups granulated white sugar
  3. 450 grams or 2 cups softened unsalted butter
  4. 2 tablespoons milk
  5. 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  6. 2 tablespoons instant coffee or espresso powder
WALNUTS
  1. 100 grams or 1 cup walnuts
  2. 1/4 cup pure maple syrup
  3. pinch of sea salt flakes
CAKE
  1. Preheat oven to 350 F and place oven rack in middle
  2. Grease sides of pan with butter and dust some flour then trace and cut out bottom of 9 inch pan with parchment paper and place inside pan. Set aside
  3. Chop semi sweet chocolate into small bits and put in large bowl and sift cocoa powder over chocolate, and add the 2 tablespoons of instant espresso powder or instant coffee
  4. Bring a pot or kettle of water to boil (at least 3 1/2 cups) But pour only 2 1/2 cups of boiling water over chocolate and whisk until it becomes smooth and silky. set aside
  5. In large bowl, sift flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, whisk well and set aside
  6. Using a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, put sugar in bowl and add egg in one at a time making sure each egg has been incorporated into sugar.
  7. Once egg and sugar have become thoroughly combined, add the vegetable oil in a slow steady stream stirring on low- scrape sides and mix again
  8. Stir in the yogurt and vanilla extract
  9. Reduce to lowest speed and stir in flour in three additions and chocolate mixture in two additions. Mix until flour streaks have dissolved. Do not over mix
  10. Divide the batter equally into pans and bake for 30-35 minutes or until a tester comes out with just a few clean crumbs
  11. Allow to cool in pan for about 10 minutes. Place wire cooling rack on pans and invert cakes removing the parchment paper. Generously brush SUGAR SYRUP (instructions just below) while cake is warm Allow to cool completely another 1 1/2 hours
SUGAR SYRUP
  1. While cake is baking, in a small saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil stirring until sugar has completely dissolved
  2. Add the Grand Marnier while syrup is just a touch warm.
  3. Generously slather on both cake layers about 5 minutes after cake has come out of oven
WALNUTS
  1. Leave oven on at 350 F. Line a baking tray with parchment paper
  2. Place the walnuts in centre of tray and drizzle with the maple syrup and mix with wooden spoon
  3. spread nuts out evenly and bake for about 15 minutes, turning once halfway at about 8 minutes
  4. after
  5. Let cool for about 3 minutes before separating the walnuts and sprinkling the sea salts
  6. Keep all the caramelized bits of maple syrup to dress cake with
COFFEE SWISS MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM
  1. In a medium saucepan filled with couple inches of water on medium heat, place the stand mixer bowl with the 6 egg whites and 2 cups of white sugar and bring water to a simmer
  2. Whisk constantly until candy thermometer reads 160 F- check by rubbing a bit between your thumb and finger that the sugar has completely dissolved and isn't gritty
  3. Fit the mixer bowl in the stand mixer with the whisk attachment and whisk until medium-stiff peaks form and the bowl returns to room temperature about 10 minutes
  4. Whisk together the instant espresso or coffee powder with the milk until all the powder has been dissolved
  5. Turn the mixer down and stir in the vanilla extract and the epresso/coffee milk mix
  6. Change the whisk attachment to the paddle attachment and start dropping in the room temperature butter in a couple table spoons at a time. Make sure the butter is fully incorporated before adding the next dollop of butter.
  7. Once all the butter has been added beat another 5 minutes on medium
  8. Buttercream may look a bit lumpy at times...be patient, it'll smooth out with a couple minutes of beating.
ASSEMBLING THE CAKE
  1. First...make sure cakes are completely cool. Refrigerating overnight or freezing for about 15 minutes makes icing easier.
  2. Place first cake layer on your cake stand and spread out about a quarter of the buttercream with an offset spatula
  3. Top with the next layer of cake and spread buttercream with offset spatula on top and on sides of cake
  4. Sprinkle the walnuts and the caramelized maple glass
Notes
  1. -This recipe can easily be made into a single layer chocolate cake. Just divide all ingredients by half and bake in one 9 inch pan
  2. -I've read that swiss meringue buttercream can be stored in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 weeks...however consuming within a week is ideal. Make sure you bring to room temperature and beat again for about 3 minutes before icing onto cake...if it gets lumpy or appears like it's curdling, blast a hair dryer on the buttercream while its beating in the stand mixer or place on a double boiler for a couple minutes...just to get the butter to gel with the meringue again.
  3. -Store cake in fridge in a cake container for up to a week
STEMS & FORKS https://www.stemsandforks.com/

Mandarin Crème Pâtissière filled Donuts

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Life was not easy for my family growing up. We were new to the country (Canada), with barely any money, English or knowledge of what the western culture was like. The language, the food, the shopping and the holidays were all so very different including Christmas-something that wasn’t celebrated by Koreans back in the 70’s. Christmas of course, the most revered and celebrated by the western world was hard to avoid for my folks. It was everywhere, the malls, the streets, TV.  In fact my first memory of Christmas was when I was 4 years old. It was of my parents trying to figure out how to erect and decorate a Christmas tree for the very first time. All the meanwhile my father summarizing the Gospel of Luke and explaining how it was a lovely ‘fairytale’ invented by a group of people called ‘Christians’ and how Santa Claus was created to scare kids to behave. I distinctly remember him declaring, “So that means I’m Santa Claus. And if you obey me, you will get presents”. Yeah you could say my dad was the ultimate party pooper or just really fatigued and lost in this brave new world. 

By the time I was 10, our family skipped the tree and barely had anything festive in the home. Okay maybe a poinsettia or two. But that was it. Christmas eve dinner was usually at a Japanese or Korean restaurant where we exchanged gifts still in their original plastic bags. I shake my head in disbelief as I write this. But this was my family. My parents were too busy working hard to stay afloat to support three very sprightly growing girls so holidays were definitely not a priority. My family had plenty of spirit just no Christmas spirit. By the time I hit high school, we Shins decided to eschew Christmas. At the time it didn’t concern us. Until I had kids of my own. It was then I realized I had few Christmas memories.

Once I had kids, I  found myself doing the complete opposite of what my dad did. I was buying elf on the shelf and shifting the creepy little doll around every night and looking forward to my kids look of bewilderment and excitement (and maybe a bit of fear! Lol) when they’d see Elf had moved while they were sleeping. Telling my kids lovingly about how Santa watches kids all over the world to see who’s been naughty or nice. I even went as far as telling my 10 year old that her friends were liars when they told her Santa was bogus. And of course I began to bake with my kids… Cookies with a diy sprinkle buffet became a tradition (and a nightmare for vacuuming). And opening WRAPPED presents, wearing crowns at Christmas dinner and dancing in front of the Christmas tree with Feliz Navidad blaring. 

So I lied. I do have Christmas memories. I’ve made them for 11 years and I’ll continue to make them for as long as I’m able and I hope you can too. 

Wishing you all a very Happy Holiday. Best wishes for health and happiness in 2018. xo

Bon app! 

Mandarin Crème Pâtissière filled Donut TOWER
Serves 30
A delicious cream filled donut perfect for a weekend or holiday snack or breakfast. This recipe yields 60 donuts so feel free to reduce the quantity.
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INGREDIENTS FOR THE DOUGH
  1. 6 teaspoons active dry yeast
  2. 1 1/2 cup milk (100 degrees to 110 degrees)
  3. 200 g or 1 cup + 3 teaspoons white granulated sugar
  4. 880 g or 6 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
  5. 6 large eggs room temperature
  6. 85 g or 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
  7. 3 teaspoons salt
  8. 8 cups vegetable oil
INGREDIENTS FOR THE MANDARIN PASTRY CREAM
  1. 650 ml of freshly squeezed mandarins (about 15)
  2. 100 ml 35% cream
  3. 8 egg yolks
  4. 200 g or 1 cup of granulated white sugar
  5. Zest of 3 tangerines
  6. 60 g or 1/2 cup plus 1 table spoon of corn starch
  7. 1 teaspoon salt
  8. 200 g or 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter cut into cubes
  9. 2 tablespoons Grand Marnier (optional)
FOR THE SUGAR DUSTING
  1. 300 g or 1 1/2 cups granulated white sugar
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE DOUGH
  1. Warm milk to a simmer in small sauce pan until it reaches a heat of about 110F which is basically very warm but not uncomfortably warm when touched. Remove from heat and add the 3 teaspoons of sugar and yeast. Allow to get foamy and puff about 10 minutes or so
  2. Sift flour into stand mixer bowl with kneading hook attachment.
  3. Add the eggs, sugar (dough qty) and mix until batter is a bit shaggy...add the butter, and salt.
  4. Add the yeast milk mix and knead for about 8 minutes or until the dough has come together and is soft, smooth and bounces back when poked.- add spoon of milk if too dry or flour if too wet and knead again
  5. Put the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic and allow to rise for about 2 hours in a warm area of home.
  6. Once the dough has doubled, cut into thirds. (***unless you have already scaled this recipe back to make less donuts then there is no need to cut into thirds)
  7. Roll out each third onto a lightly floured surface to about 1/4 inch thickness.
  8. Use a 2 1/2 inch round biscuit/cookie cutter and cut about 20 rounds.
  9. Reuse scraps by re rolling and cutting (only re roll once, discard remaining dough)
  10. Place donut pucks onto trays lined with parchment paper and cover with a moist kitchen cloth and allow for the second rise about 20-30 minutes room temperature.
  11. Put vegetable oil in a large saucepan over medium heat, (370 degrees on a candy thermometer - If you don't have one..get one!) drop about 5 donuts in with a slotted spoon.(cook 5 at a time)
  12. Fry each side about 40-50 seconds. If oil is too hot the dough will turn a dark brown, turn down heat. You want to fry until golden.
  13. Use the slotted spoon to transfer the donuts to a baking sheet lined with paper towel.
  14. Roll in sugar while the donuts are still warm and transfer to a baking sheet with parchment paper.
  15. To save time, I drop the next 5 donuts into the oil by the time I'm sugaring the 3rd donut.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MANDARIN CREAM PASTY
  1. In a medium sauce pan, simmer the mandarin juice and cream
  2. In stand mixer, with the paddle attachment, mix the egg yolks, sugar, salt and mandarin zest until light smooth and pale about 3 minutes
  3. Add the cornstarch in slowly and mix until smooth
  4. Pour about half the warm Mandarin/cream mixture into the egg/sugar mixture while the paddle is stirring
  5. Stir until combined. Scrape the stand mixer bowl
  6. Transfer to the medium sauce pan with the rest of the Mandarin/cream and whisk constantly on medium heat until it starts to boil.
  7. Once it starts to bubble, reduce heat to medium low and whisk continuously for another minute
  8. Remove from heat and add the butter cubes and Grand Marnier (Optional)
  9. Stir till butter is fully incorporated.
  10. Pour pastry cream through a sieve onto a tray lined with parchment paper.
  11. Cover with plastic wrap pressing against the pastry cream so no skin forms
  12. Refrigerate until ready to use
  13. When ready to use, give the pastry cream a quick low speed mix with the paddle attachment to get it pipe-able and smooth to use
PIPING DONUTS
  1. Use a skewer or better yet, a chopstick to make a hole in the donuts
  2. Fill a piping bag with the mandarin pastry cream with a #806 or #4 tip or even cutting out a small1/2 cm hole in a strong ziplock baggie can work
  3. Pipe cream into donuts
  4. You're ready to stack!
Notes
  1. *******PLEASE NOTE THIS RECIPE IS FOR A TOWER OF DONUTS!!! To make a reasonable amount for a family of 4-5 people, use only a third of the ingredients here to yield about 20 donuts
  2. Donuts should be eaten the same day but can be stored in an air tight container for up to 2 days in the fridge.
Adapted from Naomi Robinson-Bakers Royale (Dough only)
Adapted from Naomi Robinson-Bakers Royale (Dough only)
STEMS & FORKS https://www.stemsandforks.com/

Chocolate and Orange Babka Wreath

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Babka or brioche? My husband Pierre insists on calling this a brioche wreath. Wikipedia says babkas are traditionally used for Easter holidays in eastern European countries. In fact babka comes from the Polish word Baba for grandmother. And some researchers believe babka goes as far back to the Greek period of Homer based on anecdotal texts that mention sweet, yeast leavened bread similar to Babka. Brioche is a pastry (viennoiserie) with a high butter and egg content which gives it that tender butter rich crumb.  It origins date back to the early 1400’s in France. In any case, I don’t want to bore you with a history lesson. You’re here for a guaranteed holiday showstopper that tastes amazing. 

I fully admit that this recipe requires time and patience. Which is why it’s perfect for a special holiday like Christmas or Easter. Theres not much hands on prep time as there is time to wait for the dough to rise. 3 hours warm room temp or overnight in the fridge. Then another hour for the second rise. So if you came here looking for a quick treat, wrong recipe. This babka needs to be prepared in advance. But trust me it’s totally worth the wait.

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