
Arc De Triomphe, formerly Place de l’Étoile, honours those who served in French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars
Paris…the city of lights and romance. The first time I went to Paris I was in my mid-twenties – almost two decades ago! It was my second time in Europe but the first time I was awestruck by the sheer overload of beauty. The fashion forward people, architecture (particularly Haussmann’s architectural renovation in the “everyday” structures), the symmetrical gardens, galleries, luxury brand names and food overwhelmed me. It was such an extreme contrast to Toronto. Everything in Paris was made with such artistic detail. At twenty-something years old, I felt I had found my soulmate.

View from Sacré-Cœur, Montmartre

Sacré-Cœur, the center dome is open to climb for a spectacular skyline view of Paris

Galerie Vivienne (2nd Arrondissement), one of many covered passage ways in Paris. Famed for once housing the notorious Eugène François Vidoc (criminal and criminologist)
But my soulmate wasn’t perfect. She did smell a bit of urine, had aggressive drivers, a male population (not excluding cops) that had nailed catcalling with their eyes (and sometimes hands), and an ethnocentric attitude. I remember sitting outside of Le Select Bistro in the Montparnasse area and overhearing an American couple trying to order in English (naturally, since the menus were written in English). Their innocent faux pas was met with disdain and a haughty tone from their server – who adamantly took their order – in French. Paris had spunk. And I loved that about her.

Seine River with Notre Dame Cathedral in the back right. (Photo taken in 2001)

A server preparing Crepes Suzette flambéed in Grand Marnier at La Coupole. A famed pre war Brasserie in the Montparnasse area since 1927 and a frequent watering hole for the late Ernest Hemingway.

Les Deux Magots, probably the most famous cafe in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés area of Paris

Le Bon Bock, built in 1879, the oldest restaurant in Montmartre area

Paris truly comes alive at night.
Everyone was drinking, everyone smoking, everyone was beautiful…no one was worried and it seemed everyone was having a great time. Even the homeless and destitute were reading Rimbaud or sketching nudes.
That was then. Paris has changed. Since the Charlie Hebdo and November 2015 coordinated terrorist attacks, tourism naturally slowed down. And with it, followed an anxious city and nation. Every major corner, tourist site and attraction had French military armed with finger on trigger ready to fire. There would be no catcalling. Merchants grew weary and with it came a warmness and willingness to speak English with tourists. Pierre and I were almost always given menus in English. Which disappointed Pierre as his first language is French.

Louvre Museum, Paris France. The worlds largest art museum with over 38’000 works

Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel located at the Louvre is aligned with the Obelisk (Place de la Concorde), and runs down the centerline of the Champs-Élysées, ending at the Arc de Triomphe
But the biggest difference between my first visit to Paris and my most recent was seeing the displacement of refugees. They were living in scattered shanty camps in the St. Denis area. The squalid conditions, desperation and hopelessness I saw was heartrending and harrowing. The image of two shoeless men fighting each other for a discarded lunch on what was one of Paris’ hottest days, is burned into my memory bank and will probably haunt me until the end of my days.
Despite the apprehensive state, the unyielding dichotomy between the opulence and the destitute, I still love Paris. The Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, Arc De Triomphe (just to name a few) still stand strong and beautiful like the Goddess of Liberty leading her people ahead. Although Paris is no longer my soulmate (my little ones took over that role), she will always have a significant place in my heart. As first loves always do.

Eugène Delacroix, Liberty Leading the People, 1830 housed at the Louvre

Avenue des Champs-Élysées. Home to many high end retailers, the last stretch of the Tour De France and where the annual Bastille Day Military Parade takes place.

Eiffel Tower, probably the most recognizable cultural icon of Paris.

Notre Dame, famed for its gorgeous Gothic architecture and gargoyles

Galeries Lafayette’s Flagship Store on Boulevard Haussmann in the 9th arrondissement of Paris

Views from the terrace, Galeries Lafayette

A view of the Eiffel Tower from the terrace at Galeries Lafayette

Quintessential Paris…Close to the Bourse (Stock exchange) 2nd Arrondissement

Toy boats for rent for Grand Bassin duck pond in Jardin du Luxembourg

Lawn chairs in Jardin Du Luxembourg

A little pocket of green oasis in the city.

The landlady’s cat at the Airbnb we stayed in.

Fishing on the Seine river at 7 am with Le Louvre and Notre Dame in the backdrop

Pont Alexandre III, the most ornate bridge in Paris, connecting Champs-Élysées with and Hôtel des Invalides

Marché d’Aligre, a lesser known produce and flea market. The prices for some vintage pieces were a steal

Marché d’Aligre, Bastille area 12th Arrondissement

Bassin Octogonal at the Jardin des Tuileries

Met Maria Kennedy of @saltandsuch http://www.saltandsuch.com

The reason we came…For the workshop I taught along side Elise Dumas from The Pineapple Chef

Fruit and floral arrangement I made at the workshop

My Chocolate Cake with a raspberry swiss meringue buttercream barely held up with the extreme heat wave

Gorgeous desserts provided by Pierre Herme

My babies, Georgy and Moineau.
Gorgeous pictures! Appreciated reading about your take on Paris then & now. I’ve never been (only got as far as Calais in the mid-90s) but your lush photographs and honest, heartfelt words really place a picture of Paris in my mind’s eye that’s hard to forget.
Thanks for stopping by Kris. Never been to Calais. So much of France, the world I want to see! It may be a different experience for you. I’ve been to Paris over half a doz times but the last time I went was over 10 years ago. That said, it was wonderful to see the awe in my daughters face the first time she saw the Arc de Triomphe and Eiffel tower. Which means Paris is still a magical place. xo
Truly stunning photos of gorgeous Paris. So good to read ‘Then’ and ‘Now’ about the city I always wanted to visit. Never been there but get the romantic and stylish feel just by its name. And I always fall for people speaking in French. Lolzz Neither I, nor my Husband speak this language though. Your gorgeous photos have convinced me that I need to book my travel as soon as I can 🙂
Oh if you’ve never been Esha, you must go. So many iconic places to visit. And of course the food!!! And you can totally get away with English.!xo
That’s a fascinating perspective on Paris from then to now. I went about 15 years ago and people were a little standoffish. It’s made me put off going back on a few occasions but I’ll have to reconsider. Things change. So sad to hear about the refugee displacement. My father was a refugee in the 80s and was a maniac about always having a fully stocked kitchen when I was growing up because of it. He always said that everyone has morals until they’re starving.
Sandy, if I were to go again, it’d be off season. I usually do go in the early spring months and winter months but due to the workshop, I ended up smack in the middle of high tourist season. My father says the same about starvation as he lived through the Korean War. My mom tends to over buy food…I think they’re making up for lost time!